Specialty Site

6 Responses to “Fertilizer”

1. babaknow Says:
   July 21st, 2006 at 1:01 pm

   N:P:K = 15:15:15 is a complete fertilizer.

   If you want plant to produce more leaves, use higher N and P.

   If you want plant to flower, use higher K, like 15:10:30

2. keesasa Says:
   July 21st, 2006 at 1:07 pm

   Hmmm… your question about this ‘YARA’ fertilizer… I don’t know where this fertiliser is made and sorry i didn’t hear the brand before..

   Some fertiliser although they stated the NPK content, it may not be authentic…and within it are mostly “fillers” elements to make up the weight…

   Just like the *tupid HORTI plants seeds from Malaysi a….whatever stated on the packet is not whatever you get after months of tender loving care….I planted PETUNIA and all I got was the very very common weak colours plants, the one with the rich and solid bright colored ones were all absent.

   This fertiliser you have is A GENERAL FERTILISER… If it’s in pelleted form, certain plants with delicate leaves like ferns, or breathing roots type like orchids, anthurrium cannot take this fertiliser…TOO STRONG…even though i mentioned it’s a general fertiliser.

   After application and water, observe the fertiliser. if it breaks down on contact of water, it’s fast acting…so be careful not to over apply…and place pellets FURTHEST FROM THE STEM OF PLANT…preferably at the edge of the pot…

   APPLY LESS… excessive application will kill the plant in one shot and it’s :bye: to ur plant!

   If pellets cannot break down after watering and unless it is stated as SLOW RELEASE - then the fertiliser u got is a inferior one….

   What to do then? Smash it into powder and apply sparingly…and don’t buy that brand anymore.

3. Mr Specialty Says:
   July 22nd, 2006 at 7:45 am

   I just have one pomelo tree, many banana trees, chilli plants and some flowery plants.

   Bought the Yara brand from Malaysi a as it was recommended by an estate manager who is managing a oil palm plantation. Most likely it was used for his oil palm cos the bag that i have is huge and i guess it could last me the next 10 years.

   The pomelo tree used to bear plenty of fruits until i started using this *$xp fertilizer some 15 months ago. I have since stop using it for the past 6 months but yet till now the tree has not improve to its previous state, any suggestion?

   Thank you.
   Mr Specialty

4. keesasa Says:
   July 22nd, 2006 at 8:33 am

   You should try switching to this brand - NITROPOSKA 12:12:17:2

   The last # is TE or trace element content i.e 2%.

   Apply to your pomelo at 1 kg per every 3 months.

   Apply it to the outer crown dripline, you know like when u open up an umbrella, the water dripping on the edge, that’s the dripline zone of your fruit trees.

   Water well after each application, not near to trunk but at the DRIPLINE AREA…i.e the edge where the canopy cast its shadow. Get it?

   At this circular region, it’s where theoretically all the feeder roots are, so application around this area will have the best utilisation by your fruit trees.

   Give your pomelo a good cut back of 6 inches pruning to remove all skinny or weak branches that grow inwards. This will help ventilation and prevent insects and diseases.

   After a good pruning, you can apply the 12:12:17:2 NITROPHOSKA at about 1 kg if you have a good mature size tree.

   Pomelo has no definite fruiting season, thus usually after a good pruning and fertilsier application, it will be stimulated to flower.

   If there are no bee to pollinate try spraying the open flowers with PHOSTROGEN soluble fertiliser with a misting sprayer as this will aid fertilisation and hence fruits formation.

   If you do everything right, your pomelo should produce fruits in bunches, or about 2-4 fruits in a bunch. I love those mini pomelo. More like grapefruit. And when it fruits, its in a nice mini bunches, very sweet and seedless. I planted it in my young sister’s place and will be marcotting a few from my area.

   Also do the same to all other fruit trees. If you’re not sure use sparingly but more often result should be the same and can also use for heavy feeder flowering plants like bougainvilleas, hibiscus, ixoras, etc. Flowering will be very profuse too.

   Try this more reputated brand which our National Parks are also using - NITROPHOSKA.

   Let us know the results too.

5. keesasa Says:
   July 22nd, 2006 at 8:40 am

   Also, banana tree and chilli plants are “temporary” plants ie. they are short lived.

   After fruiting and harvesting of fruits of the banana, the whole tree has to be cut down to the ground level. You must not leave the harvested tree standing as it will drain away the sucker (the life force) of the banana.

   Cutting it off to ground level will stimulate suckers to grow out again and conserve the sucker’s energy.

   As for the chilli, it’s better to use bonemeal or organic feed. Same for the banana. Similarly, if flowers don’t form fruit in chilli, u must mist the open flowers with a weak phostrogen mix.

   After a few harvesting chilli, the plant naturally dies or the chilli gets smaller and become chilli padi. It is then time to plant a new plant unless you want super tiny chilli or chilli padi.

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